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100% Bolt on Mandrel Bent 3" exhaust

WarpSpeed Performance 1993-1998 ZJ 5.2-5.9L application

Installation guidelines:

WARNING* You should always wear eye protection

"Should you decide to do the installation at home, be warned that car bumper jacks are intended for emergency use only. The use of frame contact jack stands in conjunction with a floor jack as main support is highly recommended to minimize accidental dropping of a vehicle during the installation process."

Make sure the battery is disconnected to allow it to re-program the computer after the install is complete.

Make sure the engine is cool to the touch before the install is started.

#1. Unhook your battery and mark the position of the 02 sensor on the floorboard then unhook the o2 sensor.

#2. Remove your oil filter, put a note on your steering wheel so you don't forget to put it back on.

#3. Remove the stock system by cutting in front of the catalytic converter and just behind the muffler. Unhook the hangers from the doughnuts and remove from the area.

#4. Remove the 4 studs which attach the Y pipe to the exhaust manifold, retain the studs and nutzerts for reuse.

#5. Lay out the WarpSpeed system on the floor, all the brackets and clamps are included, laying it out will help familiarize how it goes back together.

#6. Attach the drivers side section of the Y pipe, this is the easy one. Make sure the the studs are loose so you can adjust them later.

#7. Before you install the passenger side Y pipe there is a bolt which you will see that was sticking out behind the down pipe near the oil filter. The 1/4" to 3/8" of threads should be trimmed off flush with the face of the nut, we have found that an angle grinder or torch works well for that.

#8. Attach the passenger side of the Y pipe, the rear stud will make you wish you had small hands. Keep it loose so you can adjust and slip the male end into the female end of the Y pipe.

#9. You can slip the clamp over the joint and tighten loosely, then slip the clamp which acts as a hanger for the Y pipe into the rubber grommet hanger and tighten loosely. Some models have a hanger at the starter, this would be the time to attach it to the system but use the hanger we have provided not the stock hanger. You may also replace the o2 sensor but be sure to use some anti-seize on the threads.

#10. Slip the catalytic converter in place into the outlet of the Y pipe and the spacer section of pipe into the outlet end of the converter.

#11. Now assemble your tail pipe assembly (don't apply clamps yet), it works best when you slip it in over the axle from the rear.

#12. Slip the inlet end of the muffler into the spacer pipe and make sure the outlet of the muffler is on the passenger side and slip the tailpipe section into the outlet of the muffler. If you use a different length muffler you may need to get a different spacer joint or cut the one provided shorter. If you are using our new FP 746 Flo-Pro or 70 series FlowMaster you will need to trim off about 4" of the rear pipe where it enters the muffler outlet.

#13. Now loosely apply the clamps to the joints, when the clamps are finger tight make sure your system is level, check the clearance between the passenger side down pipe and the bolt which was trimmed. Then begin tightening the system starting with the Y pipe.

#14. At the tailpipe hanger you may need to crimp the finger hook area of the hanger to get the clearance you need. If you have to adjust this or any other hanger do not use a vice to bend it, use a hammer or a torch, these hangers are hardened steel and do not bend easily.

#15. REINSTALL YOUR OIL FILTER NOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! and hook up your battery.

#16. If you choose to install the provided chrome angle cut tip do it now, if you want to shop around for a while just trim off the tail pipe in a straight cut or angle cut with your hack saw.

#17. Crank it up, after you have driven for a few hours check to make sure your clamps are tight.

NOTE:

A: Stainless tips should be welded on, not clamped unless there are slits in the stainless.

B: Do not throw your old converter in the trash, take it to a muffler shop or an auto junk yard to dispose of it.

C: If you have the system welded on, leave the joint at the front of the converter clamped, this is so if you hook something with your exhaust you won't tear it all off.

D: If you have tightened the clamps real tight and have to remove a component you will discover the clamps work almost as good as a weld, you will need to apply heat to get the pipes apart.

E: If any of this sounds too complex most exhaust shops will install it in less than 2 hours. You might want to try a small shop not one of the national chains unless you already need brakes and shocks and a lot of other stuff they will try to tell you that you need.

View of the stock 2" crimped down pipes beside our WarpSpeed Performance Y pipe. Our new Y pipe has 2-1/4" mandrel bent down pipes flowing into a 3" mandrel bent pipe. Our system has no crimps and is 3" all the way to the tip of the tail pipe. The blue areas on the stock pipe, that is where the crushed areas are, that is where it gets real hot.

View of the Y pipe from the front.

View of the Y pipe from behind the cross member looking towards the front.

View of the Y pipe and 3" Carsound Catalytic converter looking towards front, note how the 3" pipe clears the cross member.

View with 3" Carsound Cat and muffler, it also shows the tail pipe location over rear axle.

The new FP-746 Flo-Pro muffler (shown below ) surprised us with its only slightly louder than stock sound, it sounds just like our stock Dodge 5.9L. When you step on the gas it goes. This muffler performed so well in our flow and noise level tests we use it as the standard muffler with our ZJ 5.2-5.9 system.

How about this view of the stock 2-1/4" tailpipe beside our new mandrel bent 3" tail pipe.

Here is a view of the Mike Leach tail pipe (it comes with a restrictive crimp already in it) There are no crimps in our pipes and they clear the sway bar!

View of tailpipe installed over rear axle looking toward back of vehicle.

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View of tailpipe installed over rear axle looking toward front of vehicle, your tip will slip over the tailpipe.

View of the factory crimped areas in the stock Y pipe and the factory crimped area over the rear axle, first photo shows an 8" area crushed to about 1". The passenger side down pipes we have removed have been blue colored from the extreme heat caused by the crushed area.

<<<<<<This is a cross section of what your pipe looks like!

The first thing you will notice with our system is the vehicle will run cooler.

<<<<<This is a cross section of the factory crushed area above the sway bar.

This is a Mike Leach tailpipe, Carsound Cat and Flowmaster 50 series SUV.

If all you have done is replace the tailpipe, cat and muffler you still have the problem of the factory crushed down pipe. What do you think all that heat is doing to your engine?

This is a photo of the factory heat shield. The dark blue color is caused by the restriction in the Y pipe, a cat and back system will not fix this.

The WarpSpeed Performance 100% mandrel bent system is entirely bolted and clamped on and can be welded at a later date or not at all. Heat is not a problem!

Remember if welding, to always leave one joint clamped.